Knitting Thoughts and Rambings
Blocking
Blocking is usually one of the last instructions on a knitting pattern. I've seen instructions to block when it seems completely inappropriate. Blocking can be viewed as a mysterious and sometimes scary activity. It is neither when you know how and why to do it.Why to Block
Blocking is done (in my opinion) to "set" the knitting. I am defiantly human and not mechanical when it comes to my knitting - my stitches are not always in a neat, tidy line. They are often quite uneven. Sometimes it even seems as if the yarn is resisting the change from existing as a straight line into being in the curved shape of a knitted stitch.
Lace must almost always be blocked. The yarn over holes that make lace so beautiful do not show themselves completely until they are stretched and poked and prodded into their full form. I've shown a lace work in progress to many knitters who give me an almost sad look at the work in my hand only to marvel at the piece once its gotten a good blocking.
When Blocking Won't Work
My experience working in a yarn store and teaching has given me exposure to knitters who want to use blocking to fix problems that blocking just cannot fix. These problems include a sweater that is too big or too small and a scarf that curls.
I am doubtful that blocking can fix sizing problems. Knitting is as big as it is because of the number of stitches and the gauge at which the knitting was made - the amount of yarn that was used in the piece cannot be altered by blocking. Therefore a sweater cannot be made smaller (removing yarn) or bigger (adding yarn) once the knitting is completed. Sure knitting can be stretched and scrunched, but it is what it is and I'm doubtful that it can be changed after the fact (fulling and felting aside, of course).
I am also doubtful that blocking can fix an unwanted curl. Stockinette stitch curls because knits are physically a different size than purls are. When all of the knits are put on one side of the fabric and all purls are put on the other side, the fabric is out of balance and it curls. Blocking cannot fix a problem of physics as this one is. Blocking can temporarily convince a (wooly) fabric to lay flat for a while, but physics takes over after a bit to get it to curl once again.
That said, I do block stockinette sweaters before I seam them to get them to lay flat for the seaming process. The blocking does work long enough to make the seaming much easier so I'm not fighting the curl as I seam.
It is ok to look for miracles. Break all of my rules above and block to fix mistakes that I say cannot be fixed. No harm can come to your work by blocking, just don't be too disappointed if sizes are not changed and curling is not fixed.
How to Block
There are two main ways to block knitting: steam blocking and wet blocking. Wet blocking was my first introduction to blocking and, to me, the least scary. It is useful for uncurling stockinette stitch pieces and coaxing the yarn to accept its new shape. Steam blocking is my new love and is taking over the majority of my blocking. It is useful for quickly getting rid of uneven stitches and setting the knitting. It is also very useful as a first pass at blocking lace.
Wet Blocking
If blocking has you at all concerned or scared, try this method first. The tools you will need are:
- Non-rusting pins. I use T-pins (available at most yarn stores)
- Spray bottle filled with water
- Something to pin to - I use a "Superboard" used for quilting (available at most fabric stores), other people (who have bigger, cleaner houses than I do) use carpet, cardboard can be used as well (just make sure that no colors will bleed onto your knitting)
Pin the knitting to the board. If you do have a certain size that you want the finished piece to be, pin the work out so that it is that size, and make sure that the edges are uncurled. If it is lace (or anything with yarn overs) make sure it is very, very stretched.
Spray the knitting thoroughly with water and let it dry. If it is lace, perhaps try to stretch it again once it is almost dry and wet again. Repeat this process until the lace is very open and it pleases you.
Steam Blocking
It took me quite a while to get up the courage to do this. Let my experience prevent you from waiting so long to do it. It is not as scary as it sounds. The tools you will need are:
- Steam Iron
- (optional) Non-rusting pins
- (optional) Something to pin to - I use a "Superboard" used for quilting (available at most fabric stores), other people (who have bigger, cleaner houses than I do) use carpet, cardboard can be used as well (just make sure that no colors will bleed onto your knitting)
Heat up the steam iron - I usually use the highest setting. One the iron is hot, hold the iron well above the knitting and give it a good blast of steam. Feel the knitting, it should feel warm and damp and happy. It can be stretched and coaxed into an even form. Pull and prod at the work while occasionally giving it another blast of steam. If blocking lace or something to shape, lay it on the pinning surface and pin it to shape while continuing to blast it with steam. You should see the results as you steam the work.
I usually use a combination of the two blocking methods nowadays (and by that I mean in my current lace obsessed life). I start off with a good steaming and pulling moving over to pinning and spraying (while poking and prodding and stretching). Eventually, letting it sit to dry.
Blocking is not the answer to all mistakes, as some people seem to believe, but it can put the finishing touch on knitting making the finished product more pleasing. Always keep in mind that just because a pattern tells you to do something does not mean that you must do it. If your project looks fabulous to you when it comes off the needles, then it can be done. Blocking is not required but it can be useful.
January 20, 2006
